Çuka e Aitoit and Mount Milë

The hill of Çuka e Aitoit (Eagle Mountain) is located at the southwest of the Vrina Plain in a strategic position overlooking the valley in all directions. The majestic views from the steep western slope, across the Plain and towards Butrint, are particular impressive. The village of Çiflik, with its traditional houses, is situated on the southern slope of the hill.

The hill has been settled from pre-historic times. Today the remains of a Hellenistic hilltop settlement, dated to around the 4th century BC, can be seen in the form of huge walls of polygonal blocks. Traditionally the site has been regarded as the southernmost point of the area controlled by the koinon (confederation) of the Praesebes, with an earlier phase marking the corresponding southern extension of the area held by the Corcyreans (Corfiots) in the 5th century BC – the Dema Wall possibly marking the northern limits.

The city wall forms a circuit with extension over the gentler southern and eastern slopes of the mountain, in all covering an area of five hectares. Several gates gave access to the city and remains of well-constructed Hellenistic buildings can still be seen.

The Roman phase of the city is still unknown, but the summit was reused and fortified in late Antiquity, and the acropolis – as at Butrint – may have been a settlement well into the medieval period.

Mount Milë is a high and steep limestone ridge that separates the Butrint coastal zone from the inland area. The ridge runs north–south over 7 km and forms the eastern boundary of the Butrint National Park. From the ridge spectacular views can be gained over Butrint toward the Straits of Corfu and toward Saranda.

Milë has a distinct limestone karst features. The foothills are rugged and dry, giving way to a landscape of rocky cliffs and cave systems. The mountains are deeply fissured by streams. The north-facing slopes and valleys are covered with dense oak woodland and scrub – Mediterranean maquis – whereas the more exposed slopes are characterised by open woodland, particularly kermes oak. Here there are wild boar, wolf, badger, brown hare and horseshoe bats. High up on the rocky crags are golden eagles, peregrine falcons and rock partridges.

The slopes are seasonally grazed by goats and sheep, which pass through this area as they are shepherded from the high mountain ranges to the low coastal plains. On the east-facing slopes (outside the Butrint National Park boundaries) areas of dense forest are mingled with horticultural smallholdings.

The pastoral use of the mountain may have ancient roots. In 1981 a handsome bronze figurine of the god Pan – the god of shepherds, fertility and wild nature – was discovered on Mount Milë, at a point overlooking the Pavllas Valley and the Straits of Corfu. It seems probable that a small sanctuary to Pan once stood there.

In the statuette Pan is depicted as essentially human from the waist up, both with hairy goat’s legs, which would almost certainly have ended in cloven hooves had they been preserved. He is bearded with rough hair, pointed animal ears and dewlaps hanging from either side of his chin. There is no trace of the horns that often characterise the god. He is shown naked except for an animal pelt over his shoulder. In his left arm he carries a shepherd’s crook, with his right hand he pours oil from a flask over his phallus as a sign of fertility.

 

• Landscape and monuments around Butrint
• The Landscape
• Korafi Hills and Cape Stillo
• QTVR of Cape Stillo
• Malathrea and Çiflik Church
• Çuka e Aitoit and Mount Milë
• North of Butrint

The death of Pan
Plutarch (De defectu oraculorum 419 B-D) tells of a strange story of the death of Pan that was to be announced at the entrance to Butrint (Palodes).

A ship carrying freight and many passengers was making a voyage to Italy when one evening the wind dropped and the ship drifted near the island of Paxi. Almost everyone was awake when suddenly from the island was heard a voice calling Thamus. Thamus was the Egyptian pilot, not known by name even to many on board. At the third call he answered, and the caller said, ‘when you come opposite Palodes announce that Great Pan is dead’. On hearing this everyone was astounded. Thamus made his mind up that should there be breeze, he would sail past, but should there be no wind he would he deliver the message. Coming opposite Palodes there was neither wind nor wave. Hence Thamus faced the land and delivered the message as he had heard it, ‘Great Pan is dead’. But even before he finished a great cry of lamentation rose up, many voices mingled with exclamations of amazement